My
1987 Porsche 928 S4, 5 speed
Clutch
Replacement - Great Advise Received
I would like to thank
all who had provided me with very helpful support when I needed it
most. The following are the generous inputs I have received in
response to few questions I had.
Well, after 4 hours of
struggle (all per Shop Manual, except those "angles" could not be
inserted due to no gap and preexisting overlap that "angles were to
provide to prevent expansion), we managed to drop it 1" of
center. It is loose, Pressure Plate's pins are out, it moves up and
down, AFT and FWD, but it will NOT DROP!!!!!!
I tried to remove mine without inserting the little angles and had no
luck getting it out as well. What I did do was to push the lever
arm in, releasing some of the pressure on
the clutch allowing me to get the little pieces inserted. Once
that was done, the clutch just about fell out. To push the
lever arm in, I used a wrench to increase the length of the lever
arm so I could actuate it from under the car. I was doing the job
solo. Let me know if you need anything else.
John Fagerlund
'89 GT with new GTS clutch
Yes, my clutch assembly could move back and forth as well, but was
still hung up by the fried pilot bearing. The inner portion of
the race was fused to the pilot shaft. The bearings would not let
the shaft come free. When you free the pilot shaft, the clutch
assembly drops out like a deck of cards.
John Eifert
Could be your pilot shaft is fused to the pilot bearing. I had to
use a hydraulic spreader to separate mine, then it dropped right
out. Your clutch is a bit different than mine since I have a
double disk clutch. I think they went to single by 87. Greg
Nichols would be a good person to contact as well. See http://members.rennlist.com/jeifert.
Regards,
John Eifert
I'm looking at the manual (page 30-6b) and it says to fabricate 3
angled pieces out of 2mm thick sheet stock. These are used
to tension and position the genuine Porsche spare parts. I
look at where they are supposed to go, and there sure ain't no
2mm gap for them to slide in; it's more like
1mm. Do they get tapped in? Are these really necessary? On my 87
S4, I had the same problem so I decided to bypass this step. The result
was that when the clutch was completely unbolted there wasn't enough
clearance to remove it from the bellhousing. In the end I put half of
the bolts back and used a pry bar to make enough room for the shims.
After that, it slid out just fine. What is the size of the bolt
on the front of the crank? I want to get a socket for it so I can
rotate the engine using ratchet (plugs are out). It's easier to
rotate the engine by prying on the flywheel teeth with a screwdriver
(you can see the position of the clutch assembly more easily), using
the side of the bellhousing as your fulcrum. If you really
want to do it by turning the crank bolt, Think that the socket size is
listed in one of the timing belt procedures, try Tony Harkin's site
http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh. Good luck.
Jamie Howton
1987 928 S4 Diamond Blue Metallic 5 Speed
1979 928 Opalmetallic 5 Spd 64K
928 OC Rennlist Member Chicago PCA
http://www.howton.net
If I remember correctly after I removed the clutch the first time
without the shims installed (because they wouldn't fit), I re-installed
the clutch bolts and used a pry bar to move the pressure plate back so
that I could then install the shims. Once they are installed
correctly the entire assembly can be removed. Good luck.
Jamie Howton
2003 BMW 330i
1995 BMW M3
Crank bolt is 27 mm. Jamie is right, you need to fabricate those little
angle pieces. They can be maidhood of steel or aluminum 90 degree angle
bar stock. Do yourself a favor and buy a pilot bearing puller. It
will turn the job into a 3 minute piece of cake.
SPEEDMASTER
928 Specialists
The clutch arm must be popped off of the pivot ball at the top. Be VERY
careful to avoid breaking the ball stud off of the bellhousing!
The central splined shaft must be pulled completely back from the
flywheel, so as to be out of the pilot bearing. Be VERY careful
when removing the clutch assembly! It is HEAVY and has sharp edges. It
can and will cause serious injury if it falls on you.
Wally Plumley
928 Specialists
Do You see
significant difference using GTS clutch doe street driving?
Since my clutch before I changed it was in such bad shape, the new GTS
clutch was a huge improvement. I've heard it is more durable than
the stock S4/GT clutch and has a bit more clamping force. Some
people say it is heavier with the stiffer springs, but it really
doesn't bother me, even when caught in Silicon Valley commute traffic.
Some of the high-performance 928s go with the earlier, dual clutch
plate setup because there is less rotational mass. It is quicker
to rev. There is a lot of interest in upgrading the failing 928 sound
system. A
how-to guide may be a good thing. Greg Nichols may even put it on
his site.
Cheers,
-j
John Fagerlund
'89 GT with new GTS clutch
As far as O2 Bosch
Universal sensor splicing/soldering is concerned, it looks like that
extension wires will never make above the floor (too short).
Also, original O2 sensor harness goes through very nice feed-through
that seals wires very well. So, how people connect
Universal? It looks like the splice or solder must be below the
floor, behind the heat shield, but below the floor. Is that how
You did Yours?
I cut wires off the old sensor right at the sensor, so yes, I
think the splice is below the floor. You can solder and then
shrink wrap the connection. Very secure.
John Eifert
I have noticed that You have spliced Your O2 Sensor interface. I
got Bosch universal and sure enough there are two white
wires. How do You know which goes where? Is black Lambda
and both whites are resistor? Also, it extension wire long enough
to splice them inside the car?
The other two wires are for a sensor pre-warming device.
It's not necessary. The sensor is grounded to the car throughout
the exhaust. You need to locate the wire that goes to the O2 plug
(a round rubber plug). That is the one you need to connect the
universal wire to. The other two wires go to a two prong plug
that feeds the pre-warming device.
Hope that helps.
John Eifert
As far as oxygen sensors. I do not own an L or LH car. I have CIS. But
I do have a Motronic Audi that I have used the Ford universal Bosch
sensor on. I remember it being three wire with 2 whites and a black. I
remember it being 2 wires for the heater and one for the signal itself.
If I remember correctly there are two high temp teflon wires that are
white. I don't believe it matters which of the two white wire you
connect to which because it is just a loop circuit with no polarity.
But I think possibly you should consult Wally as a second opinion or
just ask the list for other S4 home wrenches...
Wally Plumley [wplumley@bellsouth.net]
Jay Kempf
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